Easy Quilt Pattern for Beginners ~ Berry Patch!

This scrappy, mini Berry Patch is an easy quilt pattern for a beginning quilter.  Measuring just 12” x 13”, this quilt is the perfect size to decorate a shelf or table.  Or add a sleeve to the back of the quilt, and hang this berry up!!

There’s nothing complicated about the pattern.  This quilt can easily be over the weekend!!  Using such small squares, you can either purchase small amounts of fabric or just use scraps to create this fun project!

This quilt totally reminds me of picking wild berries!  This scrappy, mini Berry Patch quilt is so “berry” cute!

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berry patch pattern pin with quilt and two pies

General Sewing Directions for Easy Quilt Pattern

The directions for this easy quilt pattern are for rotary cutting, machine piecing, machine quilting, and the binding is hand-stitched to the quilt back.

Accurate cutting and sewing enhances your final product.  Pin your pieces together before sewing them to ensure proper seam alignment.

Use a ¼” seam allowance.  I recommend using a special presser foot with a ¼” guide if you have one for your machine.  This will help you get uniform seams, and matching corners!

Follow the directions described below as you press open the seams.  Each individual row is pressed in the opposite direction of the previous row to eliminate bulk and help seams to lay flat.  Rows sewn together are then all pressed in one direction for a uniform look. 

The pattern calls for machine quilting, but this quilt is so small you could easily hand quilt it!

The finished quilt measures 12” x 13”.

Fabric Requirements

The berry is created using a variety of dark purple and a few red prints, along with a little green for the stem.  For the background I used a variety of buttery cream-colored fabric to show off the berry.  Have fun choosing your color palette, and remember…there are no rules!!  You’ll need at least a 1 ½” wide strip of any one fabric.

Purple Fabric

The total fabric needed is less than ¼ yard.  However, to achieve the scrappy look of this quilt I suggest using at least 8 different prints.  Either raid your stash, or purchase a few new fat quarters. 

purple fabric used in berry patch quilt

Red Fabric

You’ll need a less than ¼ yard.  Use a few different prints.

Green Fabric

You’ll need a less than ¼ yard.  Use a few different prints.

Cream Fabric

Again, the total fabric needed is less than ¼ yard.  However, to achieve the scrappy look of this quilt I suggest using at least 8-10 different prints.  Either raid your stash, or purchase a few new fat quarters.  You’ll need at least 1 ½” wide strip of any one fabric.

Backing Fabric

1 fat quarter                     

backing fabric used with berries and leaves
I used this fabric that I’d had in my stash forever! I’d bought it years ago and was waiting for the perfect project to use it!!!

Binding Fabric

1/6 yard total


You’ll need a piece of 16” x 17” thin cotton batting (like Warm & Natural) to make this quilt. 

Cutting Directions for Easy Quilt Pattern

Follow the directions below for cutting all of the pieces to make this easy quilt pattern!

Purple Fabric

Cut 56 – 1 ½” squares.   Use a variety of at least 10 different prints. 

Red Fabric

Cut 9 – 1 ½” red squares.  Use a few different prints. 

Green Fabric

Cut 11 – 1 ½” squares.  Use a few different prints. 


Cut 63 – 1 ½” cream squares and 12 – 1” cream squares.  Again, use a variety of at least 8-10 different prints from your stash or fun new fat quarters. 


I used a brown print for my binding.  In total, you’ll need a binding strip that ends up measuring about 60” long (this leaves room for connecting and trimming the ends). 

Cut either 2 – 2 ½” x 44” strips, or cut 4 – 2 ½” x 22” strips.

Trim the ends of each strip at opposing 45-degree angles.

binding strip with trimmed ends


Cut a 16” x 17” square. 


Cut a 16″ x 17″ square.

backing and batting trimmed to size

Sew the Unique Blocks for Easy Quilt Pattern

There are some unique blocks that you’ll need to make for this easy quilt pattern.  These blocks will be used to shape the round corners of the berry and the berry stem!

Berry Stem

You’ll use 11 green squares and 11 cream squares to make the stem. 

Use 2 of each of these colored squares to make 2 half square triangles.  See directions below for how to make Half Square Triangle Blocks. 

On the wrong side of the fabric draw a horizontal line across the middle, ¾”, of the remaining 9 cream squares.  Place these cream squares right sides together with the remaining 9 green squares, drawn line facing up. Pin and sew along the drawn line. 

Trim to ¼” from seam, press open toward the green side.

Corners of Berry

You’ll use 14 purple squares and 2 – 1 ½” cream squares and 12 – 1” cream squares to make the corners of the berry.  Use 2 of each of these colored squares to make 2 half square triangle blocks.  See directions below for how to make Half Square Triangle Blocks.

On a 1” cream squares draw a horizontal line from corner to corner on the wrong side of the fabric.  Place this cream square right sides together on the upper right corner of a purple square, drawn line facing up and perpendicular to the corner.

Pin and sew along the drawn line.  Trim outer corner ¼” from seam, press open toward the purple side.  Repeat for the remaining 11 squares.

Half Square Triangle Blocks

You’ll use 1 colored square and 1 cream square to make a half square triangle block.

Using a fine pencil, lightly draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the cream square. 

drawing a diagonal line on fabric square

Now, place the right side of a colored square and the right side of a cream square (the one you just drew the line on!) together. With the diagonal line facing you (wrong side up!), sew along the line. 

sewing along a diagonal line of fabric square

Trim ¼” from seam.  Press open toward the colored side.  This half square triangle block should again measure to be a 1 ½” square.  Trim if needed.

Assemble the Top of this Easy Quilt Pattern

Now that you have all your 1 ½” squares cut out and your half square triangle square blocks ready, you want to plan how they’ll be arranged to make up the easy quilt pattern top. 

layout of berry patch quilt

I like to lay all my squares on a card table next to my sewing machine and play with arranging them until I get the look I want.  Follow the diagram above to obtain the design.  The layout will be 13 squares across and 12 squares down.

The quilt top has 12 rows.  Begin stitching squares together (right sides facing) to complete each row. Remember to use a ¼” seam allowance for all seams. 

I really like to use my ¼” seam foot to make sure all my seams are exactly ¼”!!  This is especially important when sewing such tiny squares together.  If you don’t have this type of foot, make sure you know exactly where your ¼” sewing line is on your machine, and be careful to follow it!

As you complete a row, lay it back down on the table in the right placement to make sure you don’t mess up your arrangement of blocks.

sewn rows of berry patch quilt

Pressing the Blocks and Rows

I wait to press the rows until I have each of them sewn together.  Be careful to just “press” and NOT “iron” the seams in a back-and-forth motion, or your quilt will stretch out of shape. 

Begin by pressing the seams of the first row all in one direction.  Press the seams of the second row in the opposite direction.  Continue to rotate the pressing direction of each row until you have the seams of all rows pressed. 

Think…odd rows 1, 3, 5, etc. press the seams to the right.  Even rows 2, 4, 6, etc. press the seams to the left.  

pressing rows of quilt

By using this rotating direction of pressed seams, you will have nicely nested seams and less bulk when you sew the rows to each other. 

holding together two rows with seams nested together

This method of pressing distributes the bulk, which will make you happy when you machine quilt your project!  Bulky seams can lead to bumpy quilting patterns, broken thread, and overall unevenness of your machine-quilted quilt top.

Now that you have the pieced rows pressed, sew them together! 

Pin rows 1 and 2 together, right sides together.  Make sure to line up the seams, and pin to hold them in place.  Remove the pins as you come to them when you’re stitching the ¼” seam. 

sewing together two pinned quilt rows

The rows all get pressed in one direction, either towards the top or towards the bottom.  By pressing them all in one direction it will make for a uniform and smooth quilt top.  Repeat until you have all of the rows sewn to each other and pressed.

Nicely pressed quilt blocks and tops are a work of art, and a skill to develop!  I love how pretty they look from the back too!!

pressing top of quilt with iron

Finishing the Quilt

Now that you have your quilt top sewn together, it’s time to finish it! 

Layering the Top, Batting, and Back

I refer to layering the quilt as “sandwiching”.  You need to sandwich the top and back with the batting in the middle.  For a larger quilt, this process takes a bit more time and steps.  But for this mini quilt, it’s a breeze to sandwich the layers together! 

On a table or countertop, use masking or painter’s tape to tape down the backing fabric.  As you tape the back to the table, you’ll want to make sure the fabric is smooth, without wrinkles.  Also, make sure the right side of the fabric is facing down! 

Lay the batting on top of the taped-down quilt back, and move your hands across it to smooth it all over.  This will get rid of any wrinkles in the batting, and help to adhere it to the backing fabric.  This quilt is so small, you don’t need to use basting spray to adhere the layers together.  Just a few pins will do the trick!

Once you have the batting placed on top of the quilt back, center the top of the quilt (the flimsy!) over the two bottom layers.  Right side facing up, of course!  The two bottom layers of the quilt (the back and the batting) should extend about 2” all around the outside edges of the quilt top. 

Get Out All the Wrinkles!

Move your hands across the quilt top to smooth it all over, and help remove any wrinkles.  This will also help adhere the quilt top to the batting a little bit.  Once you have the top of the quilt all smoothed out, use large safety pins to baste all three layers together.  I like to use 1 ½” stainless pins, and I keep them all in a cute old canning jar that was my grandma’s.

Put a pin in each corner of the quilt sandwich, in the middle, and around the quilt so the three layers don’t move around when you’re machine quilting this project.  I used about 8-10 pins to hold the sandwich together.  You really don’t want to use more than this or you’ll be needing to stop a lot when you’re quilting to remove pins, which upsets the mojo of your quilting rhythm, lol!

pin basted layers of quilt

“Quilting” the Quilt

 I used a cute meandering pattern to machine quilt my layers together.  It reminds me of meandering through the berry patch to pick berries! 

machine quilting a meandering design on berry patch quilt

Use whatever free-motion stitch you’d like, or use a straight stitch to quilt in the ditches or along the seams. You’ll need a darning foot to free-motion quilt, and you’ll need to either be able to lower the feed dogs on the machine or place a special cover over them.  If you’re using a straight stitch to machine quilt you’ll need a walking foot.

As an alternative, you can hand-quilt these layers together too.

Binding the Quilt

When you’ve finished quilting the layers together, it’s time to bind the edges of your quilt!  I’ll do my best to describe the binding process below, but if you’re confused by my directions there are lots of videos on the Internet that will demonstrate the process for you.

Prepare Binding Strip  

Take your 2 ½” binding strips that you previously cut and prepare to sew them together. 

Align two strips together perpendicularly along the 45-degree ends.  Who ever thought you’d use those 4th grade geometry skills again, lol!  Pin the ends and sew them together.  Press the seams open. 

Then, fold the binding strip in half (wrong sides together), and press. 

pressing binding strip in half lengthwise

You’ll need a finished strip that is about 60” in total length, you will trim it after it’s sewn to the layers.

Sew the Binding Strip to the Quilt

Begin to sew the raw edge of the binding to the quilt by pinning it along one side.  Be careful to sew the raw edge of the binding strip to the quilt, not the folded edge!

I usually start sewing the binding strip in the middle of the quilt side that I’m starting with.  Start sewing about 5” in from the end of the binding strip, leaving a hanging “tail” on the binding.  You’ll sew this to the end of the binding strip when you finish sewing all along the sides of the quilt.

Stop sewing on the first side ¼” from the corner, use a pin to mark this location and sew right up to it.  Backstitch a bit, and cut your thread but DON’T cut the binding strip. 

sewing on binding strip

Making the Mitered Corner

Now, remove the quilt and binding strip from your machine and fold the binding strip straight up so it’s perpendicular from the side you were just sewing on. 

turning up corner of binding strip perpendicular to sewn edge

Fold the binding strip back down on itself and match it to the edge of the quilt you just sewed it to, and the next edge of the quilt you’re about to sew it to.  Pin this fold in place, and pin the binding strip to this edge of the quilt and continue to sew it, again stopping ¼” from the next corner and repeating the folding process described above. 

Continue in this manner until you are on the last side of the quilt, the side you started on. 

Connecting the Ends of the Binding

Stop stitching about 4” from where you started.  Backstitch and cut the thread (but not the binding strip, not yet!), remove the quilt and binding strip from the machine.

You now have two “tails” of the binding strip, one from where you started stitching it to the quilt and one from where you just stopped.  You’ll need to join these tails together so that you have a continuous binding strip to finish sewing down to the quilt.  This can be tricky! 

Here I don’t worry about cutting 45-degree angles on each end of the binding strip to sew it together to make a continuous strip.  If you can master this technique, my hat is off to you!!  What I do is measure how much more binding strip I’ll need to finish sewing it to the edge of the quilt.  I then cut a straight line along each end of the binding strip, adding ¼” to each end so I can sew the ends together with a ¼” seam (right sides together).  Continue to sew the now continuous binding strip to the quilt.

Trim the Batting and Back

Trim the batting and quilt back to ¼” from the edge of the quilt top.  I use a ruler and a rotary cutter to accomplish this task.  Work carefully, so you don’t cut into your quilted project.

trimming edges of batting and backing to one quarter inch from quilt top

Hand-Stitch the Folded Binding Edge to the Quilt Back

Here is my FAVORITE part of the process, hand-sew the folded edge of the binding strip to the back of the quilt.  When you get to the corner, carefully turn the corner right-side out to make a nice, mitered corner.  I tack a few stitches up the corner to hold it in place, and then continue stitching along all sides and corners until…VOILA!  Your binding is complete!

handstitching binding to the back of the quilt

If you’d like, you can add a label to the back of your Berry Patch quilt.

I hope you enjoy making this scrappy, mini quilt!!

Happy quilting!!!


P.S. This Berry Patch quilt looks so cute together with the Wild Flowers quilt! Click here for the Wild Flowers Quilt Pattern!

wildflowers and berry patch quilts on a wooden counter

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